فوفوزيلا

أقسم ريبولت برأس مانديلا أنني لن أغادر كيب تاون قبل أن تجرى انتخابات المجلس المحلي التي سيشترك فيها مرشحاً عن شعب(الزولو) وهددني بتعويذة جنوب إفريقية تنسيني العراق والموصل والتدريب الصحفي الذي جئت من أجله لصالح اليونسكو. وهكذا بقيت لنحو أربعين يوماً أرافق صديقي في تنقلاته المكوكية الأنتخابية بين أجزاء العاصمة وكيمبيرلي، وبيشو، فضلاً عن مدن قريبة كـ(بيتر ماريزبيرغ، ومافيكينج، بلويمفونتاين).

ريبولت، بشرته غارقة في السواد، يمتلك قامة زرافة ورشاقة سنجاب. روائي وصحفي ومحام. يتحدث أربعة لغات بينها العربية، إضافة الى الافريكانية الممزوجة بهولندية وأنكليزية والمانية. زار أربيل قبل ستة سنوات ضمن وفد استثماري وهناك تعرفت عليه وأخذته في رحلة سياحية امتدت من شقلاوة مروراً بكلي علي بيك وبيخال وكلي زنطة والعمادية، وانيشكي، وصولاً الى الجسر العباسي.

لم ينس صديقي كرمي العراقي، وكل تلك الاطباق من(القوزي والبرياني وأسياخ الكباب وكبة اللبن والدولمة) فراح يعذبني هناك بـ(المانشنا والتينتازوا والغونبليانو والتومبلينا) وهي اكلات يستحسن في معظمها أن يفكر المرء بشيء آخر وهو ياكلها، لمذاقاتها المختلفة واللحوم الغريبة المحشورة فيها،

كان يتحدث بحماس ثوري ونحن نتقابل على موائد المطاعم بينما اللقمة تدور في فمي بهدوء الخائف على معدته وأستجيب بين الحين والآخر بابتسامة شرقية حكيمة لسرده المتواصل بلغة عربية ممزوجة بالفصحى والمصرية مع شيء من اللبنانية والخليجية.

ريبولت كما هو حال معظم سكان كيب تاون يعشق الفوفزيلا ويحتفظ في حقيبة يده بنسخة صغير مبتكرة منها مدعمة بعلبة هواء مضغوط، تغنيه عن النفخ بفمه. وهي مزعجة لحد بعيد لزوار هذا البلد ومريحة لأعصاب سكانه على حد قول ريبولت الذي يتفوه بأشياء مجنونة في الغالب، وكلما اعترضت على واحدة من شطحاته أخرج الفوفوزيلاً وضغط رافعاً يده الى فوق ( طييييييييط ).

قلت له بان عادتهم هذه جعلت منتخبنا الوطني بكرة القدم، يخسر قبل سنوات أمام أسبانيا برأسية ديفد فيا في الرمق الأخير من المباراة، إذ كانت البطولة وهي كأس القارات تقام في كيب تاون، ويومها فقد الحارس محمد كاصد صوابه وأمسك رأس زميله المدافع علي رحيمة بدلاً عن الكرة في هجمتين، وطلب في الاستراحة ما بين الشوطين وضع القطن في أذنيه، لمقاومة ضجيج نحو ثلاثين الف فوفزيلا كانت تزعق دون توقف.

استغرب ريبولت، من إقامة بطولة مهمة كهذه في بلاده دون أن يكون له علم بها، فخففت عنه الأمر وأخبرته بأن أعضاء الحكومة المحلية في المحافظة التي أتيت منها لا يعرفون أيضاً بالأنشطة الثقافية او الرياضية الرسمية التي تجري هناك، لأنهم يهتمون في الغالب بالظهور في التلفزيون والاستغراق في جدال جلساتهم. ويبدو انها مهمة وطنية مقتبسة من أفريقيا، فرد ريبولت بنفحة طويلة ( طططييييييط).

طرزان وناشيونال جيوغرافيك شوها صورة افريقيا، فليس صحيحاً أن القارة مجرد غابات تجول فيها الاسود والنمور وتتقافز فيها القردة، بل فيها حضارات إنسانية ضاربة في القدم، وجنوب إفريقا واحدة من الدول التي تمتلك ذلك واستحالت في الوقت الراهن أوربا مزروعة في قارة افريقيا، نجح أهلها في كبح جماع البيض العنصريين وأقنعوهم في نهاية الامر بنظام ديمقراطي تساوى فيه الجميع بعد حروب ومذابح أبادت الآلاف. ليتسامحوا في نهاية الأمر ويبنوا وطناً حقيقياً.

كنت أفكر في كل ذلك ونحن نجوب أروقة المتحف الوطني في قلب العاصمة وأقارن بين ما أشاهده وبين النسخ المحفوظة في رأسي من آثار الموصل التي دمرتها وسرقتها داعش. ثم تذكرت وهمست لريبولت ونحن نجتاز غوريلا ضخمة من الرخام بأن عضواً في مجلس محافظة نينوى أعلن ذات يوم بان تدخل اليونسكو لإنقاذ المعالم التراثية في الموصل حرام شرعاً، ففوجئنا بصوت حاد من الخلف ( طييييييييييييييييييييييييييطط ).

كان المصدر هذه المرة، عجوز طاعنة في نهاية الرواق المخصص لأثار شعب التسونجا، كانت تفترش الأرض وتردد كلمات غير مفهومة وبيدها اليسرى فوفوزيلا بلون وردي. أشار ريبولت أنها تتحدث بلغة(تسونغة) وقال بأنها عرافة وتدعونا لقراءة الطالع. لم أقل له بأنني لا أؤمن بخرافات المشعوذين واحترمت ملاحظته بان العرافات محترمات في بلاده أكثر من رئيس الجمهورية. القت العرافة بعظام حيوانية وحجارة صغيرة أمامها ثم أمسكت أنفي برؤوس أصابعها وراحت تردد أغنية شيطانية بمقاطع متعددة وتضغط بين مقطع وآخر( ططييييييييييييييييييطططط ).

شهر بأكمله مر وانأ ألح على ريبولت لكي يخبرني بما قالته العرافة عن مستقبلي، لكنه أمتنع وقلب موجة الحديث في كل مرة. لكن في ليلة اعلان النتائج الانتخابية وهزيمته في ثالث انتخابات يخوضها في مشواره السياسي انهار نفسياً واعترف لي ونحن نركل بأقدامنا الحافية موجات دافئة على شاطيء(ماينلترون)، بأن ما قالته العرافة عني لا يبشر بخيرٍ أبداً.  وبعد ان جلسنا في حانة قريبة وأفرغ في جوفه عدة كؤوس من عرق زامبيا، قال لي ووجهه ينز عرقاً أن العرافة تعتقد بأنني سأموت في سن السابعة والخمسين بنوبة قلبية وأن المكان الذي أعيش فيه ستظل طرقه مليئة بالحفر ولا ينمو فيه بنيان مادام أولئك الناس موجودين في تلك البناية التي كانت قائمة قبل سنوات في…… ثم قال بصعوبة بعد ان ابتلع قطعة خيار، الـ ( وواسة ).

ثم تابع، وهو يعصر ليمونة في طبق الزلاطة : ” قالت بان بركاناً يغلي من حيث أتيت، وأنفك اوحى لها برائحة الحمم وان مشهد الهياكل العظمية على الأرصفة سيعود والصناديق لن تمتلئ أبداً بالآمال “.

شعرت بدوار إفريقيا كلها وأنا أطرق بكأس العرق الزامبي سطح المائدة، كان يراقبني بعينين منتفختين بينما كنت اخرج الفوفزيلا من حقيبته وأضغط مترنحاً صوب الشرق( طططييييييييييييييييطططط).

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