أم قاسم بائعة الگيمر.. وأمنياتها البسيطة
المنصة- نغم مكي
تجلس بائعة الگيمر “أم قاسم” بالقرب من فرن صمون ومعجنات في وسط سوق البصرة الشعبي تصيح على بضاعتها بينما يتوقف الزبائن ويشترون منها وجبة الفطور الأكثر شعبية في البصرة.
منذ سنوات اعتاد المارة على تواجد السيدة “راضية صالح” التي تبلغ من العمر (45) عاماً في هذا المكان، تفترش بساطاً في أرضية السوق وتعلوها سقيفة لا تكاد تحميها من المطر، تبيع الگيمر أو مايطلق عليه “گيمر عرب”.
والگيمر أكلة شعبية عراقية معروفة، تدخل فيها مكونات من حليب الجاموس ويكثر الطلب عليها في المناسبات الاجتماعية وصباحيات الأعياد وأيام العطل.
تخبرنا أم قاسم عن مهنتها التي زاولتها منذ الصغر فتقول: “وجدت عائلتي متمرسة بصنع الگيمر وما زلت أذكر كيف كانت أمي وجدتي وبقية نساء العائلة يجتمعن لصنعه في جو من الألفة والتعاون”.
اختارت أم قاسم مكانها هذا قرب فرن لبيع الصمون والكاهي، لأن المهنتان مكملتان لبعضهما البعض على حد قولها.
إذ يشتري الزبون أولاً قطعة من خبز الصمون أو الكاهي (نوع من الخبز المغمور بالقطر) ثم يأتي إليها ليشتري صحناً من الگيمر، وبذلك يحصل على وجبة فطور كاملة.
تبدأ “أم قاسم” يومها في الثالثة فجراً، تنهض من فراشها وتجهزّ الإفطار لزوجها وأطفالها النيام مكتفية بكأس حليب وقطعة خبز، ثم تتجه إلى حظيرة الجواميس.
هناك تبدأ بحلب جواميسها واضعة الحليب في غالونات بلاستيكية كبيرة أو “دبانات” كما تسميها، ثم تفرغ الحليب في “طشت فافون” وهو نوع من أوعية الألمنيوم المسطّحة، وتضع الطشت على نار هادئة وتحرك الحليب ببطء.
ما أن يبدأ الحليب بالغليان حتى تطفئ النار وتتركه يبرد ثم تكمل عملها بوضع غطاءٍ خفيفٍ فوقه ومن ثم بطانية سميكة، وتتركه لمدة يوم كامل.
تؤكد أم قاسم أن الشرط الأساسي لنجاح الگيمر أن يكون من حليب الجاموس، وإلا لن يكون “أصلياً” وزبائنها لن يشتروا منها، وتقول: “حليب الجاموس مميز بكونه عالي الدسم ويختلف عن حليب الدواب الأخرى، فله مذاق خاص ولذيذ”.
بينما تتحدث تنتقل أم قاسم إلى أوعية من الگيمر كانت قد صنعتها يوم أمس، ترفع الغطاء عن الطشت حيث تطفو على السطح طبقة كثيفة من الگيمر تشبه القشدة في قوامها، ويبقى الحليب الدسم في الطبقة الأسفل.
وبواسطة سكين ناعمة تقوم بتقطيع الگيمر وهو بمكانه تاركةً مسافة ميليمترات بين القطعة والقطعة لتسهيل عملية تبريده بسكب الماء البارد أو الثلج فوقه.
ثم تنقل الگيمر إلى صينية من الفافون (الألمنيوم)، وبهذا يصبح جاهزاً للبيع وأم قاسم كذلك جاهزة للانطلاق إلى السوق.
بالنسبة لأم قاسم فإن المشقّة الحقيقية ليست في عملية صنع الگيمر على الرغم من اضطرارها للاستيقاظ فجراً وقضائها ساعات في حلب الجواميس ونقل الأوعية المعبأة بالحليب.
لكن الصعوبة تكمن في العمل خارج المنزل فهي تضطر كل يوم تقريباً لقطع مسافات طويلة لشراء كميات من الثلج ونقلها بغض النظر عن طبيعة المناخ لأن هذه الأكلة “لا تؤكل إلا باردة، صيفاً أو شتاءً” بحسب تأكيدها.
كما أن الجلوس على الأرض لساعات طويلة في السوق بدأ يسبب لها بعض المتاعب الصحية ظهرت مؤخراً على شكل آلام في المفاصل والعظام.
رغم ذلك لا تغادر أم قاسم السوق قبل أن تطمئن إلى أنها باعت كمية وفيرة من الگيمر.
ولكي تزيد من خيارات البيع وتلبي أذواق جميع زبائنها قسمت الگيمر إلى جزأين، واحد تخلطه بالحليب فيصبح قوامه سائلاً وتبيعه في عبوات بلاستيكية صغيرة الحجم، أما الجزء الآخر فكثيف القوام. وتضيف: “معظمهم يفضل الگيمر السميك لأنه عالي الدسم”.
كما أنها تبقي على جزء من حليب الجواميس تصنع منه لبناً خاثراً وجبناً تبيعها أيضاً لزيادة ربحها.
تخبرنا أم قاسم أن السوق في الفترة الحالية “في أسوأ حالاته” نظراً لانتشار وباء كورونا وتناقص عدد المتسوّقين ولندرة المناسبات العامة التي يجتمع فيها الناس.
وتقارن مع الأوضاع في السابق خصوصاً في صباحيات الأعياد عندما كانت السعادة تغمرها وهي تعود لمنزلها باكراً وقد باعت كل ما لديها.
تصمت قليلاً ثم تضيف: “تكلفة تحميل صواني الگيمر من منطقة سكني في الدير شمالي البصرة إلى مركز المدينة تصل إلى عشرة آلاف دينار عراقي للنقلة الواحدة، وعندما لا أبيع ما يكفي يكون تعب اليوم كله قد ضاع” وتكمل: “هذا غير التكاليف الأخرى المتعلقة بتربية الجواميس”.
أم قاسم تلك المرأة العراقية البسيطة المتلحفة بالسواد، والتي يصاحب كلامها العفوي دعوات دائمة وكلام لطيف، تحاول كل يوم أن لا ترجع إلى بيتها بنصف صينية الگيمر، فهذا سيعني لها ولأسرتها الخسارة الأكيدة.
تحدثنا عن ابسط أمنياتها قائلة: “في الشتاء أتمنى أن لا تهبط درجات الحرارة كثيراً فالجلوس تحت السقيفة لا يحمي من الأمطار ولا من البرد.. وأتمنى أيضاً أن لا يكون الجو رطباً في الصيف كي لا يتعرض الگيمر للتلف او الحموضة.. فيفسد”.
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