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صدقوني، لم أكن أريد أن أتورط في ذلك. فأنا مجرد غريب وجرح الوطن مازال ينزف في جوفي. سحرتني الجسور المتجاورة على نهر اللايباخ وسط ليوبليانا السلوفينية، نهر صغير يحارب بصمت ميتة الجريان، وقوارب تروح وتجيء بالعشاق، ويضج المكان بالموسيقى والقبلات ، وقلوب متطايرة في كل مكان.
ولأنني عراقي ومدمن على الحزن، قارنت بين النهر المنساب بهدوء وثقة، وبين نهر الخوصر الذي يلتحم بشاطئ دجلة الأيسر وسط مدينة الموصل. في الأول قنادس تتلقف هدايا السياح بخفة القوارض ومكرها، وقوارب تمضي بالمنصهرين حباً، وزهور تطوق الجانبين، وتمطر عطراً، والأهم من كل ذلك مياه نظيفة, جارية. أما في الآخر، جواميس غاضبة ، وجرذان ديناصورية تحفر المزابل، وأدغال غاباتية تنمو منذ عقود في غفلة عن البلدية، وجدول صغير من سائل غريب، يخترق صحراء المجرى، قبل أن يعصر وغفاً ابيض تحت الجسر قريبا من مصبه.
تذكرت ذلك الجسر الحجري الصغير، ظلمه سنحاريب كثيراً عندما شيده هناك، ولكن على أية حال، هو لم يكن يعرف بأن ذريته ستستسلم لعشرات من الاحتلالات من بعده، وان المستعمرين سيوقعون على دجلة بصمة وجودهم. ولكن الملك افتتح الجسر في عام 1934، أي بعد رحيل المحتلين البريطانيين، شيء ما همس في داخلي، وطلب مني أن اصمت، فللجسر آذان، وربما اتهم موصلياً بتزوير معلومات تاريخية، بجعل أهم رموز المدينة، صناعة استعمارية.
دفعت دم قلبي من اليوروات ثمناً لثلاث كرات من الآيس كريم، لعقتها بهدوء الخائف على لوزتيه، وأنا أتشمم عطر شابة فرنسية تجلس الى جواري ومنشغلة بالحديث عبر كلاكسي 4 . كنت سعيداً بممارسة دور التجسس السياحي، أعجبني صوتها البلبلي وهي تتحدث بفرنسية خالصة، مليئة بالغين، فعادت الموصل مجددا، مرت السرجخانة من أمامي، وقصر المطران، والجامع الكبير، وتل قينجوق، وابتسامات الأصدقاء الذين غيبهم الموت خلال سنوات الوجع.
لا أعرف متى احتل الاثنان مكان الفرنسية، شابان افريقيان، مشتعلان بالسواد، كانا يتحدثان ببطء أول الأمر، ثم تسارعت الكلمات، وارتفع الصوت، وقفا ليتقابلان في وضعية قتالية ثم التحما في جولة ملاكمة. السياح الآخرون، تعاملوا مع الأمر وكأنه جزء من برنامجهم السياحي، إكتفوا بالوقوف والمشاهدة قليلاً، وبعضهم التقط الصور، ثم غادروا دون أن يضعوا حداً للديكين المتصارعين.
فوتُّ على نفسي كرة الآيس كريم الأخيرة. وتدخلت مستعينا بنخوتي. وقفت حاجزاً بينهما، وبعد عشر دقائق من المفاوضات، أقنعتهما بهدنة، ثم رتبت المكان لجلسة حوار سلمية.
أتضح لي أنهما من دولة غرب افريقية، أحدهما يدعى سوندو وهو من قبيلة سينياوانا، والآخر أسمه غابولو، من قبيلة شييا واوا. أقسم سوندو بكل ما يعرف من آلهة افريقية، بأن قبيلته أرادت أن تقلب صفحة وطنية جديدة، وان تعيش بسلام في ظل وطن يشترك في بنائه الجميع ، فردَّ غابولو بأن قبيلته عانت الظلم على أيدي حكومات قبيلة سينياوانا طوال قرون، وانها بعد رحيل أخر نظام دكتاتوري، أرادت إنصافا تاريخيا، بتولي السلطة، لكون أبناء قبيلته هم الأكثرية في البلاد مع تعهدات سلام دائم للجميع.
وتابع غابولو: ” يكذب كل من يقول لك بان البلاد لم يكن فيها صراع طائفي على المستوى الاجتماعي قبل عقود، فالبعض من قبيلة السينيا واوا، كانوا يعتقدون بان لدينا ذيول !!.”
بادره سوندو بالقول: ” وكان البعض من قبيلتكم إذا شتم أحدا قال له، عظم سينياواوي في قبر أبيك “!!
ثم ارتفع صوت سوندو قليلاً، واتهم قبيلة غابولو بالتعاون مع قوات الاحتلال الأجنبية، وباحتكار السلطات الأمنية، والتعامل بقبضة من حديد مع أبناء قبيلة سينياواوا، باعتقالات عشوائية، وأزمات مفتعلة شبه دائمية، وعدم ضبط الأمن، مع التقتير مالياً.
رفض غابولو ذلك بشدة، وقال بشيء من الغضب، ان السينيا واوا أقلية، ولايمكن ان يتولوا السلطة، وانهم يساعدون المخربين، لتدمير البلاد، بدعم من دول الجوار.
واتهمه الاخر بذات الشيء.
بح صوتي، وأنا أحاول ان أتوصل معهما إلى اتفاق سلام، وشرحت لهما أن صراعهما هذا سيؤدي ببلادهما إلى التقسيم، وان من المعيب ان يطلع شخص آسيوي غريب مثلي على مشاكلهما ويتدخل فيها.
نهض سوندو، معلناً فشل المفاوضات، وصرخ : ” شييا واوا تسببوا بمطالبتنا بإقليم لنا، لأنهم لايريدون ان يعيشوا معنا بسلام، والدليل انهم انتخبوا الدكتاتور ذاته وللمرة الثالثة، في إشارة واضحة الى أنهم راضون عن قتلهم لنا، واعتقال نسائنا وهدر كراماتنا.
غابولو، قابله بذات النبرة، مؤكداً بأن قبيلته صبرت طويلاً على القتل اليومي للأطفال والنساء والشيوخ، وأن كل ما أرادته قبيلته العيش بسلام.
فقال سوندو بتحد “ومن يقتل أطفالنا ونساءنا وشيوخنا كل يوم؟” ، فرد غابولو ” يحدث هذا معنا أيضا، وانتم تحمون القتلة” ، فأجاب سوندو، “وانتم كذلك.” انتقل الأمر مجددا إلى التشابك بالأيدي، حدث هذا سريعا، دون ان أتمكن من فعل شيء بسبب الإحباط الدبلوماسي الذي كنت فيه، بعد ان توصلت الى قناعة تامة بان الصراع بين الطرفين مخطط له من قبل دول أخرى، وان سياسيي كل طرف يلعبون بعقول الناس، مع عمليات تشريحية للمجتمع بقتل فرص المدنية، وتصفية العقول أو إبعادها، شعرت بالحزن على بلدهما، الذي يبدو وكانه في آخر أيامه، بسبب ما استمعت إليه، وشاهدته من صراع ممزوج بالتخلف والجهل والحقد.
لم ابتعد سوى خطوات. حتى علت الصرخات في المكان، أوقف سوندو وغابلوا معركتهما وشاهدنا سوية، خمسة سود آخرين منخرطين في شجار جماعي، كنت قد استنفدت مخزون النخوة، وقررت أداء دور السائح  بالمشاهدة مبتسماً لخطوط الدم التي على الوجوه، علمت من سوندوا وغابلوا أن المتعاركين من بلادهما يمثلون قبائل تركواوا وكريدا واوا ويزييدا واوا وميسياحا واوا وصيبيا واوا، وكلهم يشعرون بالظلم، ويريدون حلولاً تاريخية لمشاكلهم.
لحقت بخيط عطر سلوفينية باربية الشكل، هرباً من المصائب التي تعاني منها إفريقيا، شكرت ربي وأنا اجتاز جسر الأقفال على اللايباخ، أن بلادي ليست كاثيوبيا، ثم سألني صوت يشبه صوتي” أي بلاد تعني، التي رفضتك وحاولت قتلك، أم التي احتضنتك ومنحتك الفضاء”. تملصت من الإجابة، بترديد النشيد الوطني ” موطني،، موطني، الجمال…..”.
ضحك الصوت الذي يشبه صوتي ثم ردد :” وطن مدَّ على الأفق جناحا ” . وقال ساخراً قبل ان أصل إلى بوابة فندق سلون حيث اقيم : “شعب الدولة الغرب أفريقية عالق بين زمنين، كلاهما أسوأ من الآخر، دون ان يعترف اي من المتصارعين بذلك “.

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